Puzzle frames

Stabilizing a puzzle before framing

Before a puzzle goes into a frame, it has to become one stable surface. You can bring a puzzle that is already glued, or leave that part to us: we check that the pieces sit flat, reinforce the back and level the surface before measuring. That way the puzzle doesn't come apart in transport or sag inside the frame after it is hung.

The safe way to bring us a puzzle that isn't glued yet is to slide it, without lifting, from the surface it was built on onto a rigid board or thick cardboard of the same size, and lay paper or plastic wrap over it for the trip. A puzzle lifted into the air splits along its weakest line, and reassembling it at the studio isn't part of the job.

There is a real difference between a puzzle built on a rug or a bed and one built on a hard surface. The first almost always arrives with slight waves, and those are flattened before gluing, not after: once the glue has set, the wave stays in.

Adhesive sheets or liquid glue

We usually prefer a dedicated adhesive sheet or an adhesive made for puzzles. An adhesive sheet sticks to the back of the puzzle, keeps the front completely clean and adds only a little thickness. It is what we recommend when the puzzle should stay exactly as it looked the day it was finished.

Liquid glue is spread on the front and seeps between the pieces, so it gives fuller reinforcement: a good choice for a large puzzle that will hang on a wall and carry its own weight for years. The trade-off is that it slightly changes the finish (the surface comes out more even and sometimes a little glossy) and it can't be undone. It has to go on in thin, even coats; a coat that is too thick is the most common cause of waves in a glued puzzle.

There is also a third way: framing with no glue at all, where the puzzle is held between the backing and the glass under gentle pressure. That suits relatively small puzzles and a frame that stays put, since a hard knock can shift pieces. If the puzzle is valuable, old, a limited edition or meant for permanent display, talk to us before gluing it at home, because that choice can't be reversed later.

Glass or acrylic for a large puzzle

Glazing protects from dust and improves the display, but on a large puzzle it is also the heaviest part of the job. Good-quality regular glass suits most puzzles and gives full clarity, and it is our default.

For puzzles with a large surface (1,500 pieces and up, and especially panoramic puzzles) it is worth considering acrylic instead of glass. It weighs about half as much, which is easier on the hanging hardware and the wall, and it doesn't shatter if the frame falls. In return it scratches more easily, so it shouldn't be wiped with a dry towel.

Either way we choose a deep frame and a strong backing, and leave the right gap between the puzzle and the glazing so it doesn't press on the pieces. If the puzzle will hang facing a window or strong lighting, we can also look at an option that reduces reflections: a puzzle is a picture with texture, and glare hides it more than it would a flat print.

Common puzzle sizes

A 500-piece puzzle is usually a fairly compact job, often around 48×34 cm, and suits a basic frame. A 1,000-piece puzzle is commonly around 70×50 cm; 1,500 pieces gets close to 85×60 cm, and a 2,000-piece puzzle can reach about 98×75 cm or more. Panoramic puzzles break these proportions entirely and can reach a meter and a half wide at a low height.

These numbers are only a starting point: different manufacturers cut pieces at different sizes, and two 1,000-piece puzzles can differ by several centimeters. That is why we measure the stabilized puzzle itself before making anything, rather than going by what the box says.

If you are planning where it will hang, remember that the frame adds the molding width on every side: a 70×50 cm puzzle in a 3 cm molding becomes about 76×56 cm on the wall.

A made-to-measure frame and turnaround

A puzzle is exactly the kind of job where a ready-made frame from the store can leave uneven margins, because no puzzle is a standard size. We measure the stabilized puzzle and make a frame to that size, with backing and hanging hardware suited to its actual weight.

The molding plays a visual role here too. A puzzle is usually a very detailed picture, and a narrow, clean molding (black, white or natural-toned wood) lets it breathe. A wide, ornate molding competes with the picture instead of framing it. A mat is less common with puzzles and usually isn't needed, because the puzzle fills the space on its own.

Most jobs are ready in about two business days. For large puzzles, jobs that need gluing at the studio, or special finishes, we'll tell you the turnaround in advance; glue needs drying time, and that is the one part that can't be rushed.

Puzzle framing prices

Puzzle framing prices, including gluing, frame and glass:

30×40 cm: from ₪100

40×60 cm: from ₪150

50×70 cm: from ₪200

60×80 cm: from ₪250

The final price is set by the exact size after measuring, the width and type of molding and the glazing (glass or acrylic). The number of pieces on its own decides nothing; it only roughly predicts the size. You get the exact quote at the studio once we have seen and measured the puzzle, before any work starts. A full explanation of what affects framing prices is on our framing prices page, linked at the bottom of this page.

One large puzzle costs more than two small ones with the same total area, because the glazing and backing get more expensive with size faster than the area itself does, and a long molding has to be stronger. If you have several puzzles to frame, it is worth bringing them all on the same visit.